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A flashing red light on a Grizzl-E charger means the charger has found a fault and stopped charging. The number of red flashes, paired with the same number of beeps, tells you which fault it is. Count the flashes between pauses, match the number to the table below, then try the reset that United Chargers recommends. Most temporary faults clear on their own. A fault that keeps coming back, especially a grounding or leakage code, is a job for a licensed electrician, not a DIY fix.
How to read the Grizzl-E light
Grizzl-E chargers use a single status light. According to the Grizzl-E user manual, the normal colours are:
- Off: no power reaching the charger.
- Solid blue: ready, waiting for a car.
- Flashing blue: a vehicle has been detected.
- Flashing green: charging in progress.
- Solid green: charging complete, or the car isn't drawing any current.
- Flashing red with beeps: a fault.
The red pattern repeats. The charger flashes and beeps a set number of times, pauses, then starts again. Watch two or three full cycles before you decide on the count, because it's easy to miss the first flash. If you can, record a short phone video so you can count slowly and show it to support later.
Grizzl-E red flash codes table
The same table appears in United Chargers' help-center pages for the Grizzl-E Classic, Smart and Duo, and in the Grizzl-E manual. The "Who should handle it" column is our guidance, not the manufacturer's.
| Red flashes | Fault (manufacturer wording) | What it usually points to | Who should handle it |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Lost ground, AC Line 1 | The charger can't confirm a proper ground connection | Electrician |
| 2 | GFCI high leakage | Current leaking to ground above the trip limit | Reset once, then electrician |
| 3 | Relay is stuck | Internal switching part not opening or closing as expected | Reset once, then United Chargers support |
| 4 | GFCI low leakage | Smaller leakage to ground, often moisture or the car | Reset once, then electrician |
| 5 | High temperature of the module | Charger electronics too hot | Owner (shade, airflow), then support |
| 6 | High temperature of the relay | Relay area too hot | Owner (shade, airflow), then support |
| 7 | Pilot state is Status E | Communication problem between car and charger | Owner (reconnect, try another car), then support |
| 8 | Pilot state is Status F | Charger or car reports the station isn't available | Owner, then support |
| 9 | Diode error | Pilot signal check failed, often plug or car side | Owner (inspect plug), then support |
| 10 | Over current | The car drew more current than the charger allows | Owner (check amp setting), then electrician |
| 12 | Application error | Firmware or software fault | Reset, then support |
There is no 11-flash code in the published table. If you count 11, recount over several cycles, because you probably caught 10 or 12.
The safe reset procedure
Grizzl-E is designed to recover on its own. The manual says the charging session stops when a fault occurs, the charger keeps checking the condition, and it resets automatically about 60 seconds after the fault clears. It also says that if a fault occurs within 5 seconds of a session starting, it becomes a permanent fault that won't clear without a reset.
The reset United Chargers recommends is safe for owners, because it uses only the breaker or the plug:
- Count the flashes and write the number down.
- Unplug the charging connector from your car.
- Switch the charger's dedicated circuit breaker to OFF, or unplug a plug-in charger from its outlet.
- Wait 1 to 2 minutes.
- Switch the breaker back ON, or plug the charger back in.
- Check that the light comes back solid blue, then plug in the car.
If the red light returns after the reset, United Chargers asks owners to fill out its technical support form and include the number of flashes. Your video of the pattern helps here.
1 red flash: lost ground
One flash is the code owners ask about most. It means the charger can't detect a proper ground path, and a charger without a working ground isn't safe to use. United Chargers' help page says a repeating 1-flash error may mean the outlet's ground wire isn't connected properly. It asks owners to have an electrician measure the outlet with a multimeter. The expected readings are about 104 to 120V from each hot leg to ground, and 208 to 240V between the two hot legs.
That measurement is electrician work. Owners in forum threads have traced 1-flash faults to loose ground terminals in the outlet, and in one Reddit case on a commercial building, to a missing neutral-to-ground bond at a transformer. Both are dangerous wiring faults, so the charger was right to refuse to run. Don't use adapters, "ground cheater" plugs or a different outlet to get around this code.
2 or 4 red flashes: ground fault leakage
Codes 2 and 4 mean the charger's built-in ground-fault protection measured current leaking to ground. Grizzl-E has its own GFCI protection, and the manual says an extra GFCI downstream isn't required. Where local code does require a GFCI breaker at the outlet, the manual says to use a 20mA GFCI breaker, and warns that a 5mA GFCI breaker may disrupt the charger. Two layers of ground-fault protection with different trip levels are a common cause of nuisance trips. Your electrician can check which type is installed.
Things owners can safely check:
- Is the connector wet, or full of debris? Let it dry, and keep it in a holster between sessions.
- Does the fault happen with only one car? Leakage can come from a car's onboard charger. Try another EV, or try your car on a different charger.
- Did it start after rain or washing the car? Moisture faults often clear once everything dries.
If the fault keeps returning in dry conditions with more than one car, have an electrician test the circuit.
5 or 6 red flashes: high temperature
These codes mean part of the charger is too hot. The causes owners can fix are simple: direct afternoon sun on the unit, a cramped spot with no airflow, or very high garage temperatures. Lowering the charging current during a heatwave also reduces heat. If the charger overheats in mild weather, or the plug or outlet feels warm, stop using it and call an electrician. Heat at the outlet can mean a loose connection, and that can start a fire.
7, 8 or 9 red flashes: car communication faults
These codes relate to the pilot signal, the low-voltage signal the car and charger use to agree on charging. Start with the connector. Unplug it, check that the pins aren't bent, dirty or corroded, and plug it back in firmly until it latches. Then try a different car if you can. If another car charges normally, the problem may be in your vehicle, so check its charging settings and contact the dealer. If no car will charge, contact United Chargers support.
10 red flashes: over current
Over current means the car drew more current than the charger's setting allows. Grizzl-E's current can be set to 40A, 32A, 24A or 16A, and the listing says 40A needs a 50A breaker. If a previous owner or installer changed the setting, or the breaker and setting don't match, ask the electrician who installed it to confirm. Never raise the charger's current above what the circuit was designed for.
Charger options for a Grizzl-E setup
If support confirms your charger is faulty and out of warranty, these two Grizzl-E models use the same fault table, so this guide still applies. Specs are from the Amazon listings. We haven't tested them.
Grizzl-E Classic Level 2 EV Charger (40A, NEMA 14-50 plug)
Level 2, 240V; adjustable 40A / 32A / 24A / 16A (40A needs a 50A breaker); NEMA 14-50 plug; 24 ft cable; metal case; IP67 per listing; UL certified per listing; no WiFi
Pros
- Simple non-networked design, nothing to pair
- Metal enclosure rated for indoor or outdoor use
- Amperage can be set lower for smaller circuits
Cons
- No app, schedules or energy stats
- Error diagnosis is by counting red flashes only
Grizzl-E Classic Connect Level 2 EV Charger (40A, WiFi)
Level 2, 40A / 9.6 kW max, adjustable 40A to 16A; NEMA 14-50 plug; 25 ft cable; WiFi with Grizzl-E Connect app (monitoring, schedules, energy stats); NEMA 4X enclosure per listing; UL tested and certified per listing
Pros
- Adds app monitoring and scheduling to the Classic design
- Same red-flash fault table as other Grizzl-E models
- Plug-in version, no hardwiring needed if a proper outlet exists
Cons
- Needs a WiFi signal at the garage wall
- Newer model with fewer long-term owner reports
A holster keeps the connector dry and off the floor, which helps against moisture-related leakage faults:
Lectron J1772 Nozzle Holster Dock and J-Hook Combo
Fits J1772 connectors; holster latches onto the nozzle; J-hook for cable; anti-corrosive steel per listing; indoor or outdoor; includes 4 screws and 4 wall plugs
Pros
- Keeps the connector off the floor and out of water
- Latching dock holds the plug securely
- Cable hook reduces strain on the cord
Cons
- J1772 only, not for NACS/Tesla plugs
- Has to be screwed to the wall
| Product | Key specs | Link |
|---|---|---|
| Grizzl-E Classic Level 2 EV Charger (40A, NEMA 14-50 plug) | Level 2, 240V; adjustable 40A / 32A / 24A / 16A (40A needs a 50A breaker); NEMA 14-50 plug; 24 ft cable; metal case; IP67 per listing; UL certified per listing; no WiFi | Check price on Amazon (opens in a new tab) |
| Grizzl-E Classic Connect Level 2 EV Charger (40A, WiFi) | Level 2, 40A / 9.6 kW max, adjustable 40A to 16A; NEMA 14-50 plug; 25 ft cable; WiFi with Grizzl-E Connect app (monitoring, schedules, energy stats); NEMA 4X enclosure per listing; UL tested and certified per listing | Check price on Amazon (opens in a new tab) |
| Lectron J1772 Nozzle Holster Dock and J-Hook Combo | Fits J1772 connectors; holster latches onto the nozzle; J-hook for cable; anti-corrosive steel per listing; indoor or outdoor; includes 4 screws and 4 wall plugs | Check price on Amazon (opens in a new tab) |
Specs are from manufacturer and retailer listings and can change between versions; check the listing before you buy. We don't show prices because they change often; the button shows the current price on Amazon.
Grizzl-E Connect needs WiFi. If your garage signal is weak, the fixes in our ChargePoint Home Flex WiFi guide apply to most chargers. If you're comparing brands, our Wallbox Pulsar Plus red light guide shows how Wallbox reports similar faults.
When to stop and call an electrician
- Any repeating 1-flash (lost ground) code.
- Repeating 2 or 4 flashes (leakage) in dry weather with more than one car.
- The breaker trips, or the plug, cord or outlet is warm, discoloured or smells of burning.
- The fault started after any electrical work in the house.
Tell the electrician the flash count and what you've already tried. It saves time on the visit.
FAQ
Why is my Grizzl-E flashing red and beeping?
Flashing red with beeps means the charger has detected a fault and stopped charging. Count the flashes between pauses and match the number to the code table above.
How do I reset a Grizzl-E charger?
Unplug the connector from the car, switch the charger's breaker off (or unplug the charger), wait 1 to 2 minutes, then switch it back on. The light should return to solid blue.
Is it safe to keep using a Grizzl-E that shows 1 red flash?
No. One flash means the charger can't confirm a ground connection. Leave it off and have a licensed electrician check the outlet and circuit.
Do I need a GFCI breaker for a Grizzl-E?
The manual says the charger has built-in GFCI protection, so an extra one isn't required by the charger. Where code requires one, it recommends a 20mA GFCI breaker, as a 5mA one may disrupt charging. Your electrician will know what local code requires.
What if my Grizzl-E shows no light at all?
No light means no power. Check whether the breaker has tripped and whether a plug-in unit is fully seated. If the breaker trips again when you reset it, leave it off and call an electrician.